How To... Shop Successfully for Vintage Clothes

Vintage clothes have been "in" for quite some time and there seems to be a certain kudos associated with finding a unique vintage item for an outfit. But, much like charity shop shopping, vintage shopping often entails rumagging through rails and rails of clothes, most of which are totally unsuitable, for that one find. In my experience, at least, vintage shopping needs patience and is often not very successful. Most of my vintage finds are accessories which are easier and quicker to find, scarves and bags, in particular.


Whilst checking out some new fashion blogs I came across A Fine Line. Despite not having long started blogging, the blog already has some good posts, in particular, She's the Bees Knees! This post is all about Pam Scrima of Parkerhawn Vintage (read it to find out more).


The bit which caught my eye were the Five Rules "that turn secondhand shopping into an art":


1. “Shop like a buyer.”


Pam’s top tip? “Buy off-season.” Think ahead to what you’ll need or want 3-6 months down the road and you’re in serious bargain territory. Think coats in the summer, beachwear in the fall,


2. “Go for classic fabrics and seasonless pieces.”


Pam recommends The One Hundred by Nina Garcia as a guide to must-have wardrobe essentials. Choose these items in silk, cashmere and animal prints for year-round wear.


3. “Befriend a great dry cleaner and an alteration specialist.”


You must have a go-to guy or girl who can take a dress in, hem a pant leg or otherwise alter your latest vintage find. If you’re not sure where to go, Pam recommends asking a personal shopper at a department store for a referral.


4. “Know thyself.”


“I look at the trends,” our expert states. “But I don’t have to follow them.” Pam believes in embracing your body type and shopping for styles that compliment your curves. Further, she says knowing your measurements is vital, and that a tape measure is a key part of any shopping kit. Many vintage stores don’t have fitting areas, and this trick will help you determine if a piece is a keeper. Don’t trust tags, as vintage sizes will vary.


5. Vintage “red flags”


First of all, perspiration stains are a deal-breaker. According to Pam, “They’re never coming out!” Second, never buy too small. Going up a size or two is okay, but too small can rarely be tailored to fit. Finally, our expert warns us against shrunken wool. Pam says none of the wives’ tales about restoring these items are true – and you can definitely take her word for it.


I have also hunted out an old Telegraph article, entitled The knowledge: how to shop for vintage fashion. This is also filled with useful hints and tips for a successful vintage shopping trip:


The seasoned bargain-hunter and style journalist Bay Garnett shares her tips for buying second-hand clothes



DON'T BE FOOLED Essentially, 'vintage' is just another name for second-hand clothing, but it's a label that has been adopted by the fashion industry to make it sound more exclusive and aspirational, like 'vintage champagne'. In other words, expensive! Yes, antique flapper dresses from the 1920s and original Ozzie Clarke designs are beautiful, but the joy of finding something that's 'one of a kind' needn't be so costly.




BE OPEN MINDED If your funds don't stretch to antique 1920s flapper dresses and classic Balenciaga, try 'thrifting', or charity-shop rummaging instead. It takes a little more effort, but the results can be far more fun and affordable. And although today's environmental concerns weren't such an issue 15 years ago when I first started thrifting, the turnover rate of clothes has now become so rapid that there's something refreshing about stepping outside of it occasionally.


MOST WANTED LIST The key to a successful expedition is to go with a tangible piece in mind, otherwise the whole thing becomes too daunting. Chloe Sevigny is my favourite person to go thrifting with. There are some fantastic thrift stores in her hometown in Connecticut, and she'd begin every trip with 'So, what are you looking for?' If you go in blank, it's much harder to feel inspired.


ACCESSORIZE If you're still a bit squeamish about second-hand clothes, start with accessories. Bags, belts and scarves instantly refresh an outfit, and are easily incorporated into your everyday wardrobe. A shop's accessories are a good indicator of the rest of the stocks


FOLLOW YOUR INSTINCT My most treasured find is a studded punk belt from the seventies that I found in a downtown New York charity shop, and fell in love with on the spot. I didn't have a single penny on me, but I'd gone in to pick up the sales money from a magazine I write called Cheap Date - it wasn't very professional of me, but after a bit of bargaining they kept the money and I took the belt.


KNOW YOUR LIMITS Build up a suitcase of ideas whenever you go shopping and come up with your own list of thrifting rules - I automatically pounce on anything leopard-print or patent. Steer clear of anything stained rather than just a little grubby and always pay attention to the fabric. Nylon or polyester is an instant veto


PAY ATTENTION TO DETAILS Look out for little details that lift a piece and make it part of a bigger style picture- a little lace edging round the cuffs, a great set of buttons or a fantastic loud print. The key is to imagine them out of the bargain bin and in the context of your own wardrobe.


HAVE PATIENCE Thrifting requires a different attitude from regular shopping. You need to be in a more relaxed frame of mind. Try church fetes or second-hand markets and pop into charity shops regularly for a quick browse - choose upmarket districts if you're after designer labels. Nine times out ten you won't find anything, but the tenth might unearth a real gem of a piece.


If anyone else has anything further to add, please let me know.


More soon. Love, SG